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#121
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Thanks for the pic. I was expecting a thin back carbon shell seat. It's in better condition than my recaros. Obviously you don't scuff it when getting on. ;-)
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#122
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i think the idea is if you have a spec c and you are prepping it for race, the first thing your gonna do is remove it anyways. thata how i got this seat. pulled out of a car getting rally prepped.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 21-09-2015 at 06:33 AM. |
#124
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Someone on PWRX had a hawk eye spec c and apart from the brakes the other stand out part were some cool thin backed seats. They were seriously stylish.
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#125
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werent they the same as the Forester STi seats?
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#126
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Well ive started the turbo swap over the last few days. Pulled off both manifolds. removed the turbo, upipe and intake pipe etc. Spent a bit of time heat shielding the exhaust mani. I did a wrap with titanium wrap. Then put Sheet Hot shielding over the top. I also did the uppipe too. The gold stuff is some already used stuff. The silver is what it looks like before its been hot. I also modified the 3 bolt uppipe so that it can be removed/installed without lifting the engine off the crossmember. So frustrating to have to lift the engine just to remove the bitch. slice 5mm or so off all the flanges and it slips in nice and easy. (with the lower profile beatrush engine mounts.)
I also ported the turbine housing so it matchs the upipe perfectly. And i smoothed and tappered the outlet of the comp housing. I also smoothed and ported the wastegate. And smoothed the turbine exit into the dump pipe. All these little things to help it flow that last 1%. The turbo is now bolted up. Ive got the intake pipe and manifolds on. Had to grind a fair amount of material from the TGV deletes to clear the 3inch pipe. Also had to grind material from the turbine housing where it bolts to the uppipe so that i could do the bolts up. And i also had to cut chunks from the comp housing casting where it interferes with the crankcase breather pipe. But once you butcher up all the parts it fits beautifully. Was alot more pain free than Kremers turbo swap. Im keeping the upgraded actuator from the td05. that bastard was something crazy like 20 pound open. the new actualtor is the basic model and is about half that pressure. i liked the big wastegate actuator because it kept shut and spooled the turbo hard. Now im going to mount and plumb up the Radium Surge tank. and also swap over to radium fuel rails from the first generation perrin rails. The surge tank has an integrated reg,and you plumb it to be a dead end system with no return line from the engine.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#127
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Awesome work dude.
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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6. |
#128
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Great work. Looked like you were trying to challenge for PITA turbo install for a while there but since you didn't have to cut the mouth or cut and rebuild the compressor outlet....I take the win. Dam!! :-)
I like the wrapping. It looks really tidy and effective. The fact that all of these parts are in a Foz is just mind numbing is a very cool way. |
#129
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haha. it wasnt that bad. just a little bit off the side of the grimmspeed tgvs. a little bit off the side of the turbine casting, and chop a casting block off the comp housing.
yeah. im loving the sheet hot shielding. it doesnt fall apart like wrap does. i still used the wrap underneath, but covered over it with the sheet hot for 2 reasons. 1 if i have oil spill, its not gonna soak into the wrap and catch fire like last time (i hope). 2 the sheet hot will protect the wrap so when it DOES fall apart, its got nowhere to go. when i pulled my uppipie out, the wrap that was on it literally fell apart. it wasnt even all that old either.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#130
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How much was the sheet hot product in order to wrap that much stuff? I am guessing it isn't cheap.
I need to make a turbine heat shield or at least cut the old one clear. |
Tags |
sled, yeti |
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