Originally Posted by maddog

Tino
What can you tell us about your builds sleeving process? Are you using Darton Sleeves and who is fitting them? Are you going for a loose fit plus loctite or a pressed fit that risk's distortion of the block? What's the plan to prevent sleeve walk and the target CC and CR, tia

Originally Posted by Darton Sleeves

The best way to make sure a sleeve does not drop is to make sure it is completely seated before decking the block.

When we machine a block to accept sleeves we measure the seating depth of the sleeve and bore the block to say .005 short of the seating depth. Once you put the sleeves in using loctite (518 prefered) once the sleeves are protruding .005 clamp them down until the loctite cures. Once the loctite cures you can deck the block surface flat. With the sleeves properly seated and held in with loctite, once you put the heads on there is no place for the sleeves to go. We do not heat up the blocks to put the sleeves in. The sleeves go in at a net fit to +.0005 and are held in with loctite. This way the sleeves go in easily and there is no added stress on the block from pressing the sleeve in. Some shops do use about a .001 press on the sleeves but we prefer to leave some clearance and use loctite. This also allows for heat expansion between the sleeve and block which maintains the seal because 518 Loctite is gummy and will contract.

Originally Posted by maddog

Tino, I stole this little gem below from Nasioc the other night with your sleeving in mind. Explains a few things about how to avoid the dreaded sleeve drop. Apparently it can happen even with your "muffin topped" sleeves, it is the good oil direct from Mr "Darton Sleeves" himself. That's great news if we have some Perth Based Guru's on Sleeving Subarus :

Go on stroke that 2.5 = 81mm crank ...you know you want to.